The proper fit for Men’s fashion should always be comfortable. A great fit from a suit is the trademark of the professional man. In general, clothes should be comfortable, but not loose. As a common rule to look sharp and smart you need to pay attention to the finer details of suit wearing and cut. At Fashion Galleria, located at River City Bangkok we understand and offer true bespoke tailoring to clients from all around the world starting from choosing the right fabric, proper fit measurements, personalized styling, trends recommendations based on modern trends, and more.
Common mistakes we see in wearers of suits are wearing pants that are too long, jacket sleeves that are too short, improperly matching your tie to your shirt, using the wrong tie knot and jackets that are not fitted properly in the shoulders or the chest (like most retail suits off the rack).
It’s a wonderful feeling to wear beautifully stitched fabric that have been tailored to fit you perfectly. You’ll feel light and comfortable and your clothes will just set perfectly to your shape, neither heavy or tight but resting evenly throughout. The following article is a little advice from us on what you should look out for, what we measure and what we do with you when you visit us based on our years of experience in carefully crafted tailoring experiences from experts and skilled tailors.
SHIRTS AND TIES
- A beautiful white or blue dress shirt is the backbone of most sharp outfits. Consider keeping multiple white or blue shirts in your wardrobe arsenal.
- A shirt should not be too loose or too tight on the torso. A tight-fitting shirt will pull and show through to the skin (or undershirt) where a loose-fitting shirt will bulge in places that will not look nice in the overall look.
- The shirt should always be tighter than your jacket. The ration here is important, otherwise you may experience clumps of fabric that protrude from under your jacket disturbing your overall look.
- Ties are the first thing people notice. Keep it bold and classy. Your choice in a tie can really bring the rest of your outfit together. The common advice for Ties is that your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt. Your tie’s length should only just reach your beltline, the waistband of your trousers or be slightly shorter and not longer.
- You can add a little pizazz to your look with the use of Tie knots. There are many types to choose from all starting from the traditional Simple Knot, the Four-in-Hand, the Windsor Knot, the Half-Windsor Knot, the Prince Albert, the Kelvin, the Pratt, the Balthus, the Eldredge, the Trinity, the Murrell, the Van Wijk and much more we can advise from fashion trends.
A Gorgeous Fit around the Shoulders and Chest
- The most important part of a Suit Jacket is the cut of the jacket around your shoulders and your chest. It must fit correctly in these areas. A good suit should hug your shoulders. The seam of your shoulder should end where your shoulder ends. Any padding or overflow of fabric that adds to the dimensions of your shoulder will make contours of your shape look unbalanced.
- The taper of your jacket should fit the silhouette of your frame and contour to your body. Consider sizing down for a better fit or sneaking in the sides to highlight your shoulders.
- It is important to note that the chest and shoulders of a Suit Jacket are the hardest areas to alter on a suit jacket.
Jacket Lengths, Sleeves Lengths, Cut and Closure
- A suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt. It should stop at your knuckles (with your arms relaxed in a normal stance) or around the bottom of your zipper.
- The collar should cover ½” – 1” of your neck above the jacket collar. We recommend matching the visible cuff length of your jacket to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck to create a harmonious look.
- The best jackets today follow the natural contours of your upper arm. Make sure there is no bulge around how the jacket frames your biceps. Think about width, tailoring sleeves the right way, makes does wonders in the contour of your figure.
- Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch. The cuffs should protrude ¼” – ½” from the jacket’s sleeves when you stand with arms hanging. Suit sleeves should end just above the hinges of your wrists or where your arm ends and the thumb begins.
- The jacket cuff is like a frame on a painting. Let a little shirt sleeve show through (about a quarter of an inch) as a finishing touch. Did you know that this little design element also lengthens the look of your arms?
PANTS AND TROUSERS
Pant and Trouser Lengths
- Pants should be worn at the natural waist, near the navel. As a common rule the waste of your pants should sit at about two inches below your navel.
- Pants should be slightly roomier in the thigh and slightly tapered below the knee. The bottom should touch (just brushing) the tops of your shoes, but not touch the ground. The most standard length brushes the top edge of the shoe in the back for a slight break in the front. Consider flat front pants for a slim fit.
- Additionally, men under 5 ft. 9 in. (180cm) look better without cuffs on their trousers. However, if requested, it should be in proportion to their body dimensions at about 1 ¼”- 1 ½”. While men over 6 ft. would have cuffs 1 ¾” – 2”.
In addition to receiving a perfectly cut suit for a perfect fit, there are other elements to your style which can be added to your fantastic modern, professional and sharp look. These elements come in the form of accessories. Accessories are not required, but they can bring more to the table by proper choice as it accentuates what already looks amazing on you from a perfect fit. Some of these may include:
- Handkerchiefs or Pocket Squares